Terre Maritime is Barney Flanders’ white wine crown jewel – the Chardonnay that sits at the very top of the Garagiste tree. It comes from a tiny corner of Merricks Grove, just a few rows of 28-year-old vines rooted in cool grey loam and crumbly red clay. Facing slightly east at 90 metres above sea level, the site is more sheltered and less vigorous than the rest of the vineyard, which means smaller bunches, lower yields, and fruit of striking concentration.

Barney keeps the winemaking simple: whole-bunch press, wild ferment in a single 500-litre puncheon, then nine months on gross lees. Nothing to hide behind, just a pure translation of vineyard and season.

The 2024 vintage was cool and low-yielding, and the Terre Maritime reflects it with razor-sharp clarity. It’s salty, chalky and racy – like licking a clean rock by the sea – but with layers of white stone fruit, citrus zest, and a flicker of anise. There’s flint and tension up front, then a long, glowing finish that shows why this wine is so revered.

Production is microscopic, and it will disappear quickly.